Serras del Priorat 2022

Serras del Priorat is one of those wines that's almost obligatory to get to know if you want to understand where things are going in the present-day Priorat. The Cannan family makes this wine in Gratallops, in one of the most prestigious corners of the DOQ, using the native Garnacha and Cariñena with a small contribution from the international varieties, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. All seems more or less normal so far; the surprise comes on opening a bottle of Serras and looking at the wine in the glass. Its colour intensity is more subtle that what's usual in the region, but the tears remain slow and dense. It has a magical impact on the nose, and it's a wine that makes us feel like expressing our surprise, the sheer satisfaction of smelling it. You get a whiff, take another good look at the glass, and immediately want to sniff it again. It smells of freshness, elegance, pomegranates, wild strawberries, but also of the Priorat, and therein lies the magic. It reveals good tannicity, and this is pleasant too; it has fantastic acidity yet without becoming sharp, just pure balance. Balsamic, French in style, floral, with woodland hints and refreshing touches of tangerine peel. Totally distinct from those bulk wines packed with alcohol, colour and tannins and a far cry from the voices of those who thought the Priorat would be incapable of producing fine, elegant wines. If you know anyone who still harbours even the slightest doubt in this regard, just offer them a glass of Serras del Priorat and, if there's still any reluctance, a drop of Clos Figueres, the company's top wine, will be sure to convince them completely.