Ultreia Mencía 2021

Raúl Pérez's wines combine powerfulness and elegance, and delight those who drink them due to their fruitiness and great expression, but right from the start they've captivated the more expert palates as well. The tireless enthusiasm of this man, always intent upon presenting us with new wines that are increasingly more authentic, wines which reflect as naturally as possible their terroirs, their origin... results in virtual artisan creations, fairly or very limited production runs, that are released onto the market —yet some don't ever reach it— at very reasonable prices considering their exceptional quality. They are wines which every lover of fine wine should experience some day. With Ultreia Mencía, Raúl offers us a wine of immense purity, a fragrant Mencía which helps us appreciate the new style of wines from the Bierzo region, wines with identity, reflecting their land. It's also a Mencia of contrasts, wonderfully interwoven. On entry, it appears dark, both in colour, with medium-high density, and also in aromas, with that vegetal and woodland freshness typical of the Mencia. After some air to the glass, it softens up and takes on warmth and sophistication, with aromas of roses and other flowers, and dried spices (potpourri), combined with subtle hints of liquorice, fresh spices (pepper), citrus notes of red fruit and boiled sweets. It surprises and seduces with its elegance and complexity, without trying to impress. Noticeably, it's sweeter on the nose than on the palate where its real merit is purity: it's mineral, with sinew and acidity, tannins evident but not harsh, and tremendously easy to drink. If we had to choose between smelling or tasting it, perhaps we'd be swayed by its intoxicating fragrance, but while trying to make up our minds, one thing's for certain there won't be a single drop of it left by the end. There's no cause for concern over keeping any other bottles on the rack — this wine promises a good life ahead for several years. Ultreia is proof that the Bierzo is very diverse and quite remarkable. Ultreia is made from Mencía grapes grown in old vineyards, sourced from different parcels, all located within the boundaries of Valtuille de Abajo and Salas de los Barrios, planted on clay and slate soils. The grapes are harvested early, in the pursuit of moderate alcoholic strength and great freshness, and they are vinified as whole bunches and undergo lengthy but gentle macerations, without much extraction, seeking a style of wine that's direct, pleasurable, accessible but also has a long life; its acidity is excellent.